My
first job after qualifying as a professional librarian was with the British
Council’s Libraries Department, which supplies library services to educational
and diplomatic organisations across the world. After only one year I was sent
to Moscow on a short assignment to establish a library within the Cultural
Section of the British Embassy. This was in the summer of 1977 when the Soviet
Union was at the height of its powers, led by Leonid Brezhnev.
I
was there for a total of five weeks, split between two visits, and was well
looked after by the Embassy’s Cultural Attaché. His wife and family were back
in England for the first spell of two weeks, so I stayed with him in his
flat and was shown around the city and environs during our spare time.
One
Saturday he took me to the Embassy’s Rest and Recreation Centre some way north
of Moscow, where the main road to Leningrad (as it then was) crosses the River Volga.
There was a third person with us, namely a young lady who worked in a different
section of the Embassy but with whom the Attaché was clearly on very good
terms. It was not long before I appreciated that he would much have preferred
my absence to my presence on this particular trip!
The
R&R Centre offered a range of activities for Embassy personnel, including
taking a rowing boat out on the river. This is what we did, the idea being to
spend most of our time on an island half-way across quite a wide stretch of
water. I learned later that this island was strictly off limits to Embassy
staff for reasons of security, but my host had a reputation for bending the
rules when it suited him. This did not stop him from advancing in his career to eventually becoming a British Ambassador.
I
was invited to take the oars at one stage, despite having had almost no
experience of rowing. It wasn’t difficult when I got the hang of it and I quite
enjoyed being a “Volga boatman”, even if only for a short time. I noticed that
this gave the Attaché a chance to place his arm across his companion’s
shoulder, and she didn’t seem to object.
We
landed the boat on a small beach at one end of the island and sat there
watching the world go by. The river, despite being 2,000 miles from its final
destination in the Caspian Sea, was already broad enough at this point for
river cruisers to make their stately way up and down, presumably giving trusted
workers and party members a well-deserved day out. Apart from that, there were
few sounds apart from those made by the little waves breaking on the beach and
the soughing of the wind in the silver birches that covered much of the island.
After
twenty minutes or so I got the distinct impression that I was surplus to
requirements as far as the Attaché was concerned. Despite being the only
non-diplomat of the three people present I did the diplomatic thing and
suggested that I might explore the island on my own. So off I went into the
forest behind the beach.
It
was a truly beautiful place, especially on a fine summer day such as this was. There
were silver birches as far as I could see, separated by low-growing grass
through which frogs hopped and croaked in Russian. I kept on walking, but the
scenery did not change in the slightest – it was exactly the same in every
direction I looked.
After
a while I decided to turn back, but now I had a problem. Which way was back? I
had completely lost my sense of direction and had no reference point to tell me
which way I should go. I was lost in the middle of a forest somewhere in
Russia.
There
was one saving grace, and it was an extremely large one in that I knew I was on
an island and not somewhere on the mainland with nothing but forest for hundreds
of miles in every direction. All I had to do was walk in a straight line and I
was bound to reach the river sooner or later. Once there, I simply had to keep
as close to the river as possible until I got back to the beach where my
companions were.
The
next problem was that this island was shaped like a tadpole, which had been
obvious from what we had seen when rowing across to it. In other words it had
quite a large head – where the beach was - and a very long, narrow tail. For
all I knew it could stretch for a mile or more down the middle of the river.
Suppose I was heading down the spine of the island and would not see any water
until I was close to the end of the tail?
There
was nothing for it but to head off in one particular direction and hope it was
the right one. It seemed to take an age, but eventually I was able to see a
glimpse of water through the trees.
My
next problem was that I did not know which side of the island I had reached,
and therefore whether I needed to turn left or right to get back to the beach.
If I could get close enough to the river I would be able to see which way the
water was flowing and therefore answer that question because I knew that the
beach was at the upstream end of the island. Unfortunately, getting close
enough was impossible because the intervening ground consisted mostly of a very
wet stretch of marsh.
Another
piece of guesswork was needed, therefore, and a crossing of fingers. I turned
left and kept as close to edge of the marsh as I could, always hoping that I
might get a better view of the river before long.
I
then heard voices and said to myself that everything would now be OK because I
had found the beach at long last. However, when I was close enough to see who
was talking I realised that the voices did not belong to the right people. This
was another small group of people on another beach. I kept out of their sight –
the presence of a strange Englishman turning up among a party of Russians might
have led to all sorts of complications – but at least I could now see which way
the river was flowing and was relieved that my guesses had been the right ones.
It
did not take me much longer to get back to where I had started. The Attaché was
living up to his job title by being quite firmly attached to his girlfriend,
but the two pulled themselves apart and “adjusted their dress” as I approached.
I
must have been away from them for about an hour and I had been quite concerned
that they would be wondering where I had got to, but that was far from the
case. Had I been gone for two hours, I am not sure that they would have minded
– or possibly even noticed.
I had finished my
assignment and flown back to London before the Attaché was reunited with his
wife, so he had no fears that I might spill the beans regarding his dalliance
on the island.
As
for me, there were no more foreign assignments because I did not stay much
longer with the British Council. My next post was in a slightly less exciting
place than Moscow, namely Bognor Regis – although natives of the latter might
wish to disagree!
© John Welford